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It's the musthave accessory of the season and an unlikely centrepiece of a major international legal wrangle. Julia Llewellyn Smith information from Sydney on the battle over a boot

The highfashion set prancing down Bond Street in Prada coats and mohair Missoni scarves are a graphic of elegance in all but one respect. For look at their feet and the illusion of style and grace is shattered at once. While last winter the footwear of choice was excellent kneehigh Jimmy Choos, This year's musthave is a sheepskin wellie that renders the slimmest look like a Samoan dwarf and the most glamorous like a bag lady.

Right here is ugg boot, Originating from Australia and currently the hippest and most unlikely accessory available anywhere. Within the last six months, Hollywood has embraced it with the sort of enthusiasm usually restricted to Botox and colonic irrigations. Danny Jessica Parker, Pamela Anderson, Gwyneth Paltrow and even Marlon Brando have all been captured pics of clumping along like extras from The Flintstones.

In the british isles, The model Kate Moss seems to sport very good version every time she steps outdoors. The hysteria peaked last winter, When besotted by their warmth and comfort the tv host Oprah Winfrey gave a pair to everyone in her studio audience. Oblivious to the fact the boots' name is an acronym of"Hideous, Pattern addicts are paying up to for pairs, With boutiques credit canceling sixmonth waiting lists.

To be able to Kirsty Cameron, The editor of In Style aussie magazine, Her countrymen are bemused at the boots' new location. "As far as we're related, Uggs are Australia's joke on all of those other world. Adverse reports about them, We had some corporate visitors from New York and they were all on a pursuit to find them. We had been dumbfounded. To u. s citizens, People who wear uggs outdoors are the species of guys who have acidwashed jeans, Mullet haircuts and furry dice for their car windows.

"The rest of us might wear them at home after try a tracksuit, But only in winter months. So when we see Hollywood starlets wearing them with microshorts down the middle of summer, It does cause us to fall on the ground in hysterics,

Contrary to popular belief, The only aussies not laughing are the ugg makers, Which company, As opposed to profiting from the boom, Are facing potential bankruptcy. For the Ugg quarterly report boots(Making use of white Ugg label), How the jetset parade in along Rodeo Drive, Are usually, Not surprisingly, A subsidiary of as a famous company, Deckers, And produced in China.

To make things worse, Earlier than Christmas, Deckers sent a letter to its 20odd Australian contenders, Many of which had been making uggs for years, Announcing it had branded"Ugg, "G'" And in addition"Ug" And ordering them to take off such words from all business cards, Shop fronts and internet corporations. The other was litigation that none of these cottage industries could afford.

With Faulconbridge, In nsw, Brian Iversen, Whose family have run Blue slope UGG Boots Sale Boots since 1933, Says that he long ago believed as trademarking the name, But decided additionally you can easily pointless.

"Every Australian witnesses that ugg's a generic term for sheepskin boots, Your boyfriend drawls, Sheltering in the midday sun in his tiny, Tinroofed working area. "What the Americans are doing is like Ford suddenly announcing that they can be the only people allowed to use the word 'car'. It's only bloody rude, Other half,

In pants, A paintstained Tshirt and some of ugg slippers, Iversen is barely Manolo Blahnik. His course, Which manufactures 6,000 footwear a year, Constitutes two staff, Two sewing makers, A making board and a pot of glue. How does he invent his coveted designs? "We just manufacture them up as we go along, He picks up a couple ankle boots. "We call a lot of such JDs, Does that symbolize Just Divine? "No, It's for chris Daniels, According to him, Going at the pattern cutter.

At Iversen's kerbside stall, A middleaged couple from London are buying three pairs at each about half the expense of Ugg Australia's comparable model. "Our daughter said she'll never speak to us again if we do not bring her some, Says mom. "But you are these real uggs,

Julia Koerbin, Who runs the wait, Is weary of concern. "It's like acquiring a pair of denim trousers and saying 'are these real jeans?Or. "Now, Hundreds of everyone has returned their orders, Saying they could be recycled authentic', He states.

Deckers is even demanding that all internet searches filled with the word"ugg" Be forwarded to its website. "That means the end of a site I developed eight years ago, Before anyone cited trademarking, Iversen proclaims. A court combat could ruin him. "But i will win, Because our uggs have been here longest and they are cheaper than the American ones,

The foundation of the dispute lies in the boots' hazy history. Based on some sources, They were originally designed by farmers, Who wrapped ugg round their feet to keep them warm during shearing.

A pair of boots first gained cult status among surfers, Who worethem to warm their feet as soon as they emerged from the ocean. Operating across 1979, One gurus, Brian jones, Left for the US with a few dozen pairs in his backpack and started selling them to his Californian alternative. He set up a consultant, Ugg Holdings Inc and authorised the Ugg trademark in 25 countries.

Back by using 1995, Smith had sell outs to the Santa Barbarabased Deckers for $15 million. The new owners then set about transforming the brand's dowdy image by formation boots in pretty shades of pink and blue and employing a New York PR firm to supply them free to rock and film stars. Deckers' share price has grown tenfold, While the particular estimates it will sell $45 millionworth of Ugg products this year.

With such riches endangered, Deckers is decided to safeguard its interests. Yet the newlyformed SaveOurAussieIcon advertising plan, Which has set up a fighting fund for the forthcoming future legal battle, Claims its aggression has already put the Australian sheepskin trade poorer by around million.

"My client has spent $7 million promoting the brand Ugg and all these hawaiian companies are doing very nicely out of that, Fulminates Deckers' Melbournebased law firm, Tony Watson. "We are really not trying to stop anyone making sheepskin boots, But they'll have to think of another name,

Watson balances Ugg to words like Biro and Windcheater, Also branded, But usually used generically. "Bloody garbage, Behaves Tony Mortel, Whose family firm in the Hunter pit, Nsw, Has been making boots since 1958. In individual cases, He tells, A product was created before the name entered the vernacular. In the event of uggs, The work was put in by dozens of small establishments before Smith patented the name.

His case is boosted by all the time"Cheap UGG Boots UK" Is listed in the Macquarie thesaurus, The Oz equal of the OED, Like"A fleecylined boot while on an untanned upper, Over recent weeks, Cruz, Now living in so. cal, Started record to say: "We always designated them uggs, Long prior to being trademarked,

Mortel rages: "Just because Kate Moss and some goodlooking American chicks are putting them on now doesn't make them a new thing, States to have lost worth of orders since Deckers forced him to stop selling uggs on the ebay auction website. Began to allow Sydney, Fashion hair dresser Justin Craig almost chokes on his Chardonnay when asked if he thinks uggmania will endure. "The only people who get away with putting them on are models, Who give out the content: 'I'm so enchanting, I can bode well in any crap.--